Jacks Fork RiverThe Definitive Guide

Stretch 3 of 28 · miles 4¼ to 6

White Bluff


In Reach C, Low Water to Steel Bridge · on Plate A3

Stretch 3: White Bluff
Stretch 3White Bluff · river miles 4¼ to 6

The VFW campground and the Blue Hole

Former camp and pool · about miles 4.3 to 4.8 · Plate A3

A Veterans of Foreign Wars camp stood on the river below the Big Bend from at least the 1970s into the 1990s, probably on the right bank along the run below Rock-in-the-Hole, about miles 4.3 to 4.7. On July 9, 1974, the Geological Survey took a single water sample at a point it called “Jacks Fork above VFW Campground,” at about mile 4.3, and in August 2006 its crews measured the river near the campground (Chapter 12). Who ran the camp and when it opened have not been traced. The man who knew the Hiker Hole lived at the camp in the early 1990s. Floods, he said, now knocked out the timber at the lower ends of the big : “I can tell you in particular the big Blue Hole down here which used to have a lot of timber, the VFW campground used to have a lot of timber on it.”

The stretch past the VFW campground ends at the Blue Hole, by one account the deepest hole on the upper Jacks Fork and the same as Gar Hole, with a spring entering on its left from a crevice in the rock. It lies at the bend a short way above Coon Hollow, at about mile 4.8, where the river is shallow at today. Other memories put the names elsewhere. One woman wrote “Gar Hole near Y highway” among words an outsider might not know, though she was not sure where the hole was (Chapter 18). A resident who came to Mountain View from Oklahoma in 1979 marked a Blue Hole a little below Highway 17 and a Gar Hole near the mouth of Belew Hollow (Reach D). How the two names drifted is told in Chapter 18.

Coon Hollow and Coon Hollow Spring

Hollow and spring · left bank · about mile 5.1 · Plate A3

A good spring enters the river above the mouth of Coon Hollow, which comes in from the north, draining nearly six square miles. Its lower miles may stop running in dry weather. The hollow is rough, rocky and snaky. About half a mile up it is Coon Hollow Spring, a large spring with pools deeper than a person’s head, whose water sinks into the gravel before it reaches the river. The hollow is said to take its name from a renegade band of Shawnee, the Coon Klan, who camped a short way above the spring and made trouble for the early settlers. The Shawnee on the Jacks Fork are the subject of Chapter 4.

White Bluff and Gobblers Knob

Bluff and hill · left bank · about mile 5.3 · Plate A3

Below Coon Hollow the river runs along White Bluff, with a small, noisy spring at its upper end. The stands about 170 feet above the water, and Gobblers Knob rises above it. A small rock overhang on the carries a buried-treasure story: in the years when Spain owned Louisiana, the story goes, a party carrying silver from Potosi to Santa Fe ran into trouble with the Osage and buried the money on Gobblers Knob. Other treasure stories of the river are in Chapter 13.

Ratliff Ford

Ford and cabins · about mile 5.5 · Plate A3

Ratliff Ford, also called Morley Ford, is the old Radcliff , the crossing nearest Mountain View in the 1920s. Its land deal of 1928 and the drift of its spelling from Radcliff to Ratcliff, Ratliff and Rat Cliff are told in Chapter 8, and the names in Chapter 18. County Road 4666 comes down to the river at the bend here.

A camp for girls from the Kansas City area is said to have stood on the right bank near the ford until the late 1920s, with a footbridge across the river; pilings of the bridge could still be seen in the below in 1980. A spring enters on the right above the pilings. On the hillside on the right bank near the ford the Mountain View Health and Recreation Club kept several old cabins around 1980, privately owned and run, probably those of the outing club that Mountain View business and professional men organized at the ford in 1928 (Chapter 9). A Howell County columnist’s family, when not camping at Alley, swam at the ford (Chapter 19). From 1991 to 1998 state biologists sampled a stretch of river at the ford every year for crayfish (Chapter 16).

Barn Hollow and Barn Hollow Natural Area

Hollow and natural area · right bank · about mile 5.7 · Plate A3

Barn Hollow is the largest side valley in the reach. It drains about fourteen square miles and runs about nine miles from its head in northern Howell County to the river in Texas County, and for most of its length it may stop running in dry weather. Near its lower end the creek has cut a canyon through , with vertical bluffs up to a hundred feet high, a deeply entrenched and meandering course, and a clear stream of small deep pools, short and beaver ponds. Forked aster, a plant of the north, grows along it. Julian Steyermark, who later wrote the standard flora of the state, worked the canyon on August 17 and 18, 1934, and again in May 1935, and took showy lady’s-slipper from the moist bluffs at its foot and American barberry from the edge of a precipice along the river between the hollow and Highway 17. Louisiana waterthrushes live along the water, eastern phoebes nest on the bluffs, and the ringed salamander, found only in the Ozarks, lives there along with slimy and cave salamanders, southern leopard and pickerel frogs and Blanchard’s cricket frogs (Chapter 16). The ringed salamander spends most of the year underground in the woods. On rainy nights in autumn, mostly in September and October, the adults travel to fishless ponds to lay their eggs, and the larvae stay in the water through the winter, six to eight months or more, before they change and leave. The Conservation Department’s land at the hollow holds two small fishless ponds, about an acre of water between them. Small caves and dolomite boulders line the valley slopes.

Barn Hollow Natural Area protects 190 acres of the canyon. It was designated on May 27, 1980, the same day as the Jacks Fork Natural Area downstream, and the Conservation Department and the Park Service own it together (Chapter 11). The Conservation Department bought its land in the hollow in 1979. It named 115 acres a the next year and added 30 more in 2007, and the Park Service owns the 45 acres beside them. A half-mile trail leads to an overlook above the hollow. The land directly north of it, now the Conservation Department’s, was the farmstead where Sue Hubbell kept bees and wrote A Country Year: Living the Questions (1986). She came there in 1972 with her first husband, to a farm of ninety acres. After the marriage ended in the early 1980s she was left with about 300 hives and a struggling honey business, which she kept going by writing for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch and then the New York Times. She died in Maine in 2018.

Gill Branch, lettered on Plate A3, flows into Barn Hollow and carries the name of Samuel K. Gill, a Union private who settled there about 1872. The hollow was also called Winningham Hollow, for Isaac Winningham, who homesteaded 160 acres there in 1869. Its own name comes either from a farm of the Civil War years with several log barns or from “barren” (Chapter 18). The history of its spring and its school is in Chapters 5 and 18. Bear Cave, one of the larger caves of the upper river, and Bat Cave are in the Barn Hollow country (Chapter 13).

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