Below Rymers the Jacks Fork runs about nine and a half milesmeasured along the river centerline traced for the maps in this book (Rymers landing 16.5, mouth of Bay Creek 25.9). to Bay Creek, the longest stretch between public landings on the upper riverthe landings in Chapter 20 (Table 20.2) and Chapter 11, measured on the same centerline.. No bridge crosses it, and for most of the way no public roadPlates A7 and A8; NPS 2022a, maps A-11 to C-11. comes down to the water. Through this reach the river falls about 7 feet a milethe river profile measured on the 2021–23 riverbed survey (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 12); see Chapter 2.. The river swings in long loops through a canyon, north from Rymers, east past Sycamore Hollow, north again to Chalk Bluff, and around the mouth of Leatherwood Creek to Bee BluffPlates A7 and A8.. Bluff. A cliff along the river, usually on the outside of a bend, where the river has cut sideways into the hill. In this sense the word was first used in North America (Chapter 2; Chapter 18). Glossary → stand on the outsides of the bends and wooded slopes on the insides, and the Gravel bar. A bank of chert gravel and sand, usually on the inside of a bend, bare at low water (Chapter 15; Chapter 18). Glossary → and a few small fields are the only flat groundMDC 2003 (“nearly a canyon”); Plates A7 and A8; Lewis 1980, PDF pp. 34, 37, 40 (Calhoun Bottom, the Alfalfa Field, Center Field).. Leatherwood Creek, the largest side streamJacks Fork Creek Network 2026. of the reach, comes in from the left about three miles above Bay Creekmeasured along the river centerline (22.7 to 25.9)., and below it the valley begins to widen and the bars grow largerErwin, Jacobson and Jones 2021, 12, 34; see Chapter 15. (Chapter 15).
The river runs on the Gasconade Dolomite, with the Roubidoux Formation higherThornberry-Ehrlich 2016, 25; see Chapter 1. in the bluffs and on the uplands. Outcrops of the Cryptozoon chert, a bed of fossil algal mounds turned to Chert. A hard, fine-grained form of silica that forms in nodules and beds inside dolomite and stays behind when the dolomite dissolves. Most Ozark people call it flint. It makes up the river’s gravel and was the stone of the first people’s tools (Chapter 1; Chapter 3). Glossary →, have been mapped along the river from a little above Rymers to a couple of miles above Bay CreekWeary and others 2013, GIS data (field observations of Cryptozoon chert); see Chapter 1., and the long Houston Fault. A break in the rock along which one side has moved. The faults that mark the Eminence caldera run northeast and northwest (Chapter 1). Glossary → crosses the river a couple of miles below RymersWeary and others 2013 and 2014, GIS data (faults), laid against the river centerline; see Chapter 1. (Chapter 1).
The reach gains water from the riverbed more than from its hollows. In the dry week of August 2006 the river carried about 38 cubic feet a second near Rymer Spring and about 45 a mile or two above Bay Creek, while the hollows measured on the way were dry and Bay Creek added half a cubic footMugel, Richards and Schumacher 2009, 27–28 (table 2: Jacks Fork near Rymer Spring 38.2, August 16; Jacks Fork upstream from Bay Creek 44.9, August 17; Johny Hollow, Stillhouse Hollow and a spring near Stillhouse Hollow 0; Bay Creek 0.50); see Chapter 12. a second (Chapter 12). With no large spring to cool it, the water here is the warmest in the Riverways, about 63 °F averaged over the year at Rymers and at Bay CreekWesthoff and Paukert 2014, 6; see Chapter 16. (Chapter 16).
The canyon above Leatherwood holds some of the best Mussel. A freshwater clam that lives half-buried in the riverbed and filters its food from the water. Mussels on the Jacks Fork fell sharply between the surveys of 1982 and 2017–19 (Chapter 16). Glossary → water left on the river. In 2017–19 timed searches found 331 live mussels at a site about a mile below Rymers, 300 of them Ouachita kidneyshells, more than at any other siteMcMurray and Faiman 2023, 16 (table 3, river kilometer 46.4). on the Jacks Fork. Below Leatherwood the counts fell, though a site between Bee Hollow and Bay Creek, first searched in 1982, still held 203, and the site at Bay Creek held 7McMurray and Faiman 2023, 16 (table 3, river kilometers 34.6 and 33.4). The source gives sites by river kilometer only; the place names here are located from those distances.. In 2023 searchers found four species alive below Rymers and three near Bee Hollow, and only an empty shell near the mouth of Bay CreekWesthoff, Laszlo and Huggins 2026, appendix E, table 12 (sites 9A, 37A and 97A); see Chapter 16. (Chapter 16).
Bunker Hill is a privately owned retreatsee Chapter 9., and Chalk Bluff and part of the valley of Leatherwood CreekMDC, Leatherwood Creek Natural Area (1,440 acres of the valley, L-A-D Foundation). belong to a private foundationNPS 2015 (Chalk Bluff).. Bunker Hill Cave, Moss Spring CaveMSS 1982, 18–22, 44; see Chapter 13. and Sycamore CaveLewis 1980, PDF p. 34; named by stretch only. lie on this stretch, and the valley of Leatherwood Creek holds about twenty caves and shelters on land its owner had postedMSS 1982, 1, 4–61 (the Leatherwood Creek reports), as counted in the cave catalog compiled for this book; see Chapter 13. by the early 1980s (Chapter 13). Rymers to Bay Creek is floated as a trip of its ownsee Chapter 20 (the Mountain View resident’s comparison of Blue Spring to Rymers with Rymers to Bay Creek; the outfitters’ trips)., and Bay Creek ends the two-day float of about eighteen miles from the Highway 17 bridgeDufur 2013, 18; see Chapter 20. (Chapter 20).
The miles in the headings are counted from the junction of the Prong. A branch or arm of a creek, set down in 1860 as Southern usage. The North and South Prongs join to form the Jacks Fork (Chapter 18). Glossary → along the surveyed channel. Chalk Bluff is at about mile 21.6, the mouth of Leatherwood Creek at 22.7 and the mouth of Bay Creek at 25.9measured along the river centerline traced for the maps in this book.. Left and right are as you face downstream. Because the river loops, the left bank is the west bank in some places and the north or south bank in others.
Bend by bend
Pipe Spring Hole, Johnny Hollow and Johnny Hollow Hole
Pools and hollow · right bank (hollow) · about miles 16.6 to 16.8 · Plate A7
Below the Rymers Ranch Stretch (Reach E) come Pipe Spring Hole, about 5 feet deep at Low Water. The local name for the Highway Y bridge over the South Prong, the access beside it and the county’s low-water crossing where the prongs meet, and so for the head of the river (Chapter 8; Chapter 18). Glossary →the pool’s depth below the riffle that holds it, roughly its low-water depth, measured on the 2021–23 riverbed survey (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 12; pool at about mile 16.55)., and Johnny Hollow Hole. The river is said to divide at the mouth of Johnny Hollow, which comes in on the right about a third of a mile below the landingmeasured along the river centerline (16.5 to 16.8).. The hollow drains more than six square miles. Its upper course runs down Floyd Hollow, and an unnamed Branch. A small creek. The sense is American, on record from 1674 (Chapter 18). Glossary → of more than two square milesJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (Johnny Hollow 6.4 square miles; the unnamed branch 2.3); USGS GNIS (Floyd Hollow). joins it a short way above the river. Johnny Hollow is said to run a good stream of waterLewis 1980, PDF p. 35, the only source., though a mile of its bed is one of the three officially listed Losing stream. A creek that gives up its flow to the bedrock and runs dry for long stretches. Jam Up Creek, Pine Hollow and Johnny Hollow are the officially listed losing streams of the watershed (Chapter 12). Glossary →MDC 2001, PDF 26 (table Ge01, after MDNR 1999); see Chapter 12. in the watershed, and in the dry August of 2006 it put nothing into the riverMugel, Richards and Schumacher 2009, 27–28 (table 2, “Johny Hollow,” August 16). (Chapter 12). In the open-range days a logger born in 1916, who worked at Rymer’s ranch in the 1930s, put his salt out for his cattle at the mouth of the hollow, and they ranged from there down to AlleyJacobson and Primm 1994, 53 (“ran from there to Alley”; Oliver Beavers; his work at the ranch, 39–40, table 6); see Chapter 5. (Chapter 5). The Devil’s Backbone, the ridge the road of 1916 came down to the river, is said to lie on the Johnny Hollow sideLewis 1980, PDF p. 30 (“to the left of Johnny Hollow”), the only source; see Reach E. of the old ranch (Reach E).
Bunker Hill
Private retreat · left bank · about mile 17.2
Bunker Hill stands on a knoll on the left bankLewis 1980, PDF p. 30; USGS 1948 (Summersville; “Bunker Hill Ranch,” building cluster); measured along the river centerline (about 17.2). a little below Johnny Hollow. It is a privately owned retreat, whose history as a fishing camp of 1929, the teachers’ camp from 1947 and, since 2013see Chapter 9 (which opens it to public booking in 2013)., the home of the Friends of Bunker Hill is in Chapter 9.
The name is said to come from the sawmilling days. By one account the Bunker-Culler Lumber Company, whose founders built the town of Bunker, ran a large mill on the knoll late in the 1800s or early in the 1900s, until a Flash flood. A sudden, fast rise of water after heavy rain, fed by quick runoff from steep slopes (Chapter 14). Glossary → off the upper river washed the sawmill away and drowned several mules, and the company moved the mill to Pine GroveLewis 1980, PDF pp. 30, 35, the only source.. The brothers Samuel and George Culler moved a big sawmill from Mountain View early in the 1900s to high ground between Reynolds and Dent counties, where in 1907 Sylvanus J. Bunker founded the town that carries his name. By the end of that year Bunker had more than 250 new houses and about a thousand people, most of them working for the company, and its mill was soon cutting more than 100,000 feetKRCU 2025, which dates the town’s founding to 1907 and the mill’s move only to “early in the twentieth century.” That the company had a mill at Bunker Hill rests on the 1980 account alone (above). of lumber a day. A German family is said to have taken up the land after the mill, grown tobacco on the spots where brush piles had been burned, and made cigars called Ozark Trail, which came in a green box, before the land went to the teachersLewis 1980, PDF p. 30, the only source.. The state highway map of 1938 lettered the place Bunker Hill Ranch, a name nobody could explain the next yearO’Brien 1939, 21 (listed among the unsolved names; her only source the 1938 state highway map).. A well drilled at the ranch in 1962 went down 330 feet into the lower part of the Gasconade DolomiteBarks 1978, 7 (table 1, site 15)..
Stillhouse Hollow below Bunker Hill
Hollow · left bank · about mile 17.3
Just below Bunker Hill a short hollow of about a square mile and a halfJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (1.5 square miles); measured along the river centerline. comes in on the left. The federal maps have called it Stillhouse Hollow since at least 1968, and the corrections of 2011 gave the same name to the long valley at the head of Chalk Bluff, about four miles downstreamUSGS GNIS (727108, a valley record that still carries the name; 727109, the corrected hollow, Board decision of January 12, 2012); USGS 1968 (Jam Up Cave), which letters Stillhouse Hollow both here and on a short valley entering on the right at about mile 19.85; MBGN 2011 (the valley that lost the name was 0.6 mile long, and “the closest” other Stillhouse Hollow was “just less than four miles upstream”); measured along the river centerline (17.3 to 21.4); see Chapter 18. (Chapter 18). By one account it was known as Big Stillhouse Hollow, and whiskey was made in it more than onceLewis 1980, PDF p. 35, the only source.. A longtime angler and hunter of the middle river calls it “Little Stillhouse. A building where whiskey was distilled. Several hollows on the river carry the name (Chapter 18; Reach F). Glossary →.” In August 2006 the hollow was dry, and so was a spring near itMugel, Richards and Schumacher 2009, 27–28 (table 2, “Stillhouse Hollow” and “Spring near Stillhouse Hollow,” August 17, at river mile 28.4 above the mouth, half a mile below Johnny Hollow at 28.9, which places them at this hollow)..
Low Gap Bluff and Low Gap Hole
Bluff and pool · left bank · about mile 17.7 · Plate A7
The river curves to the right around the long Low Gap Bluff, on the outside of the bendPlate A7., with Low Gap Hole along it and a good stream of water said to come in on the right. The bluff rises about 240 feetmeasured on the flood-mapping terrain (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 13), the face on the left at about miles 17.6 to 17.8; see Chapter 2., and the water at its foot is said to be always full of logs and fallen treesLewis 1980, PDF p. 35, the only source.. The same angler, asked about a long curving bluff below Bunker Hill with several Hole. Any pool deep enough to swim or fish in, named or not, the basic unit of the river in local speech; also “hole of water” (Chapter 18). Glossary → along it, named it “Low gap bluff.”
Dark Hollow and Dark Hollow Hole
Hollow and pool · right bank · mile 18.0 · Plate A7
Dark Hollow is a short hollow of less than a square mileJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (0.8 square miles)., steep-sided and dark. Its mouth comes in on the right at the head of a turn to the northPlate A7; USGS GNIS (716669)., and the Pool. A deep, slow stretch of river between riffles (Chapter 16). Glossary → there bears its name. Like the river at Johnny Hollow, the water at the mouth is said to be dividedLewis 1980, PDF p. 35, the only source.. The logger who salted his cattle at Johnny Hollow, and who later guided fishermen, remembered Dark Hollow Hole below Bunker Hill as fifteen feet deep, and by the early 1990s he had heard that people could wade it; he blamed the gravelJacobson and Primm 1994, 57 (Oliver Beavers; 39–40, table 6); see Chapter 15. (Chapter 15). At low water it is about 9 feet deep today, among the deepest pools on the riverthe pool’s depth below the riffle that holds it, roughly its low-water depth, measured on the 2021–23 riverbed survey (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 12; pool at about mile 18.05); the deepest named holes measure 8 to 10 feet.. The angler marked the hole on a map at the mouth of the hollowJacks Fork Oral History, record SV-23 (marked on a map about 150 meters from the mouth of the hollow)..
A branch of about half a square mile comes in on the left half a mile below, at about mile 18.5Jacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (unnamed, 0.46 square miles); measured along the river centerline..
The Lodder holes, Lodder Bluff and Lodder Ford
Pools, bluff and ford · left bank (bluff) · about miles 18.3 to 19.5
Below Dark Hollow come three holes known as Upper, Middle and Lower Lodder Hole, flanked by a long, high bluff on the left that begins below the upper hole, a separate bluff from Low Gap Bluff above Dark HollowLewis 1980, PDF p. 35 (the curve around Low Gap Bluff, then Dark Hollow, then “A long bluff starts on the north side of the river below the Upper Lodder Hole”) and the maps on PDF pp. 33, 37; on the river centerline the two bluffs stand on the outsides of separate bends, and at the turn at Dark Hollow (about miles 17.8 to 18.3) the left bank is the inside of the bend.. The names are said to come from a Lodder family who lived nearby, though who they were has not been tracedsee Chapter 8. (Chapter 8). By one account the holes had filled in by 1980 compared with earlier years. A dripping bluff is said to flank the middle hole, and a small spring comes in on each side of the river below the Ford. A place where a road crosses through the water. Many of the river’s fords took the names of the families who lived beside them (Chapter 8). Glossary →. Lodder Ford, by the bluff, is said to be a favorite spot for huntersLewis 1980, PDF pp. 34–35, the only source; on the left: Lewis 1980, PDF p. 35 (“on the north side of the river”) and PDF p. 37 (map)..
The bluff rises about 340 feet above the water, one of the tallest faces on the rivermeasured on the flood-mapping terrain (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 13), the faces on the left at about miles 18.7 to 18.8 (about 330 feet) and 19.0 to 19.1 (about 340); the floaters of 2007 read more than 300 feet from the federal topographic map (Johnson 2007, 20, 31).. Floaters in April 2007 found an abandoned side channel at its base, left when the river moved southJohnson 2007, 20, 31., away from the foot of the rock. The places the angler marked on a map set the middle hole about mile 18.7 and the lower hole about 19.2, and put the ford at the end of the bluff by the mouth of Sycamore HollowJacks Fork Oral History, record SV-23 (places marked on a map, laid against the river centerline).. A woman who knew the upper river as a child in the 1920s remembered Loader Ford and Catfish Bluff for their deep holes, “and that’s where people fished a lot”Jacobson and Primm 1994, 56 (Willa Cowan; 39–40, table 6); see Chapters 18 and 19. (Chapters 18 and 19).
Sycamore Hollow and Sycamore Hole
Hollow and pool · right bank · about mile 19.6 · Plate A7

Sycamore Hollow comes in from the south, draining nearly three square milesJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (2.9 square miles); USGS GNIS (727414)., and the pool at its mouth is known as Sycamore Hole. A good springLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source. is said to run water into it. To the angler, who knows the hollow, it has changedJacks Fork Oral History, record SV-23..
Eighteen Foot Hole and False Teeth Hole
Pools · about miles 20.0 to 20.2 · Plate A7 (False Teeth Hole)
Below Sycamore Hollow the river turns north into Eighteen Foot HoleLewis 1980, PDF p. 37 (map); Plate A7.. It is said to have its name from the giggers, whose sixteen-foot gig poleLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source for the name’s origin. would not quite reach the Bottom. The flat land along a river or creek, built of its deposits and open to its floods. In the 1920s the bottoms near Eminence averaged about a quarter of a mile wide (Chapter 2; Chapter 5). Glossary →. Next is False Teeth Hole, which, the story goes, claimed a woman’s false teeth one day, and she was told to drag a roasting earLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source. The scan prints “roasting car,” a misprint for roasting ear. of corn over the bottom to get them back.
Catfish Bluff and the Catfish holes
Bluffs and pools · both banks · about miles 20.5 to 20.9
The Upper and Lower Catfish holes lie under bluffs, the upper on the left and the lower on the right, where the bluff rises about 150 feetmeasured on the flood-mapping terrain (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 13), the face on the right at about mile 20.75, the only right-bank face within a quarter mile of the lower hole’s place, and so probably the 1980 map’s Lower Catfish Bluff.. The holes in the rock under the water are said to have made a good home for catfish, and small springsLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source; the upper on the left and the lower on the right: Lewis 1980, PDF p. 37 (map). come in above and below the upper bluff. By the angler’s mark on a map, Catfish Bluff is on the left a little above Boat HoleJacks Fork Oral History, record SV-23 (marked on a map at about mile 20.9 on the left)..
Boat Hole, Calhoun Bottom and the Spring Hole
Pools and bottom · left bank (bottom) · about miles 20.8 to 21.2 · Plate A7

Boat Hole lies just above Calhoun Bottom, a field on the leftLewis 1980, PDF p. 37 (map); Plate A7., and below it comes the Spring HoleLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source..
Stillhouse Hollow and Nickelhoff Hole
Hollow and pool · right bank · about mile 21.4 · Plate A7 (Nickelhoff Hole)
Stillhouse Hollow comes in from the south at the head of Chalk BluffJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (mouth about 250 meters above the Chalk Bluff point); USGS GNIS (727109, 715702)., a valley three and a half miles longMBGN 2011. whose creek drains about four square milesJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (4.0 square miles).. Until the 2011 corrections the federal maps called it Bee Hollow, and those corrections moved the Stillhouse name hereMBGN 2011; USGS GNIS (727109); see Chapter 18. The short valley that lost the name, lettered Stillhouse Hollow on USGS 1968 (Jam Up Cave), enters on the right at about mile 19.85, measured on the river centerline; MBGN 2011 gives it as 0.6 mile long, its name “verified by USGS fieldwork in 1968.” from a short valley on the same bank about a mile and a half upstream (Chapter 18). A park folder of 1977 told floaters that Chalk Bluff comes into view after they pass Still House HollowNPS 1977, stop 8.. By one account the hollow held one of the many whiskey stills along the Jacks Fork, supplied by a good spring a quarter of a mile upLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source..
The pool at the mouth of the hollow is known as Nickelhoff HoleLewis 1980, PDF pp. 34, 37.. The hollow itself is “Nickelloff”Jacks Fork Oral History, record SV-23. to the angler, and the park’s list of primitive campsites in 1981 included a Nickeloff FieldNPS 1981, 127. on this stretch of the river.
Chalk Bluff
Bluff · right bank · about mile 21.6 · Plate A7

Chalk Bluff is the landmark of the reach, a long, high, paleLewis 1980, PDF p. 34 (“the white face of Chalk Bluff”). wall on the outside of a sharp bend to the leftNPS 1977, stop 8; Plate A7; USGS GNIS (715702, right bank).. Its face rises about 200 feet above the watermeasured on the flood-mapping terrain (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 13), the face on the right at about miles 21.5 to 21.6; McKee 1996 also gives 200. The right-bank wall continues around the bend to about mile 21.85, where a face rises about 280 feet., though its height has also been given as about 120NPS 2015 (Chalk Bluff).. A floater of 1996 called it “whitish,” and below it found the river wider and lined with rolling hills. The water along the bluff is known as the Chalk Bluff StretchLewis 1980, PDF p. 37 (map).. Nearly every bluff on the river is Dolomite. Calcium magnesium carbonate rock, a close relative of limestone, formed from lime mud on the floor of a warm, shallow sea. Nearly every bluff on the Jacks Fork is dolomite (Chapter 1). Glossary →see Chapter 1. (Chapter 1), and a park folder of 1977 took this one for chalkNPS 1977, stop 8..
A spring on the right above the bluff is said to flow over a round, solid rock, and another comes out at the edge of the gravel below it. That lower spring, by one account, was found to ebb and flow one day when two men, Fodder Jones and Carl Seaman, stopped there to eat lunch and watched it rise for about ten minutesLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source; the lower spring is also listed among ebb-and-flow springs on PDF p. 30. and fall again. The angler marks a spring near the upper end of the bluffJacks Fork Oral History, record SV-23 (marked on a map at about mile 21.5, right bank)., and a resident who came to Mountain View from Oklahoma in 1979 knows of a spring at Chalk Bluff but could not mark whereJacks Fork Oral History, record SV-05 (“heard of it, not sure where”).. How such springs work is in Chapter 12.
The woods behind the bluff are known as the Iron Stake Woods, said to be a good place to hunt, and named for a large iron stake driven into the ground in the logging days, when a Tram, tramway. A light logging railroad laid up a hollow, such as Cordz-Fisher’s line down Pine Hollow (Chapter 7). Glossary → reached the head of Bee HollowLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source. behind the bluff (below).
The bluff belongs to the L-A-D Foundation, though it lies inside the national riverways. In late April 2015 someone spray-painted a patch of its face about 12 feet by 24. That June a man pleaded guilty in federal court and paid $4,097.96 in fines and restitution, and three volunteers from the Cave Research Foundation rappelled down the bluff and spent two days scrubbing the paint off with water, vinegar and wire brushes, finishing on June 29NPS 2015 (Chalk Bluff)..
The Kelly holes and Big and Little Bear hollows
Pools and hollows · left bank · about miles 21.8 to 22.3 · Plate A7
Around the bend from Chalk Bluff the river runs west past Upper Kelly Hole and turns north at Lower Kelly HolePlates A7 and A8.. Upper Kelly Hole is said to lie at the mouth of Big Bear Hollow and Lower Kelly Hole at the mouth of Little Bear Hollow, a short way below; both hollows come in on the leftPlate A7; USGS GNIS (726936, Spring Hollow).. By one account both holes have filled with gravel, though Lower Kelly Hole is still about 10 feet deep at low water, the deepest of the river’s named holesthe pool’s depth below the riffle that holds it, roughly its low-water depth, measured on the 2021–23 riverbed survey (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 12; pool at about mile 22.17).. Big Bear is the hollow the federal maps call Spring Hollow, a short, rough and brushy hollow of a little over half a square mileJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (0.6 square miles). with a large spring flowing out of the ground near the river, and the angler calls it “Big bear”Jacks Fork Oral History, record SV-23 (name given for Spring Hollow). too. Little Bear is also said to run waterLewis 1980, PDF p. 34 (“The Upper and Lower Kelly Holes are at the mouths of Big and Little Bear Hollows”), the only source; the pairing follows the order of that sentence and the map on PDF p. 37, which brings Spring (Big Bear) Hollow and Big Bear Spring to the river at the west end of Upper Kelly Hole, where the river begins to turn north, and aims Little Bear Hollow at the northward run below the turn. The mouth of Spring Hollow: USGS GNIS (726936), measured on the river centerline (22.08), where the river begins to turn north..
Leatherwood Creek
Creek · left bank · about mile 22.7 · Plate A8

Leatherwood Creek comes into the river on the left through a big gravel barLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source.. It is the largest side stream of the reach, about twelve miles long and draining about twenty square miles. The federal maps name Sugar Tree, Walnut and Dry hollows along its course, and its North Prong and South ProngJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (19.5 kilometers; 20.1 square miles); USGS GNIS. join it far up the valley. By one account it heads at Oakside on Highway 17 and runs water all the way down, with many springsLewis 1980, PDF p. 41, the only source. along it. On the state’s stream maps its lowest five and a half miles flow all year, and the South Prong, more than seven miles long, has no permanent flowMDC 2001, PDF 28–29 (table Ge03: Leatherwood Creek 5.6 of 5.6 miles; South Prong Leatherwood Creek 0.0 of 7.4).. A man born in 1926 who fished up Leatherwood as a boy said in the early 1990s that “now there isn’t much water”Jacobson and Primm 1994, 56 (Will McVicker; 39–40, table 6). where he used to fish.
The name is said to have come from the early settlers, after the leatherwood that grew thickly on the north and east slopes along the creek. It is a low shrub, one of the first in the Ozarks to bloom, its pale yellow tubular flowers hanging in clusters on bare branches, and its bark and branches are tough enough that, by the same account, Indians used them for baskets and for tyingLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source.. It flowers in late March and April, before its leaves open, and the yellow tube of each flower is its calyx, since it has no petals. The twigs bend without breaking and can be tied in knots, settlers used them as withes for binding, and the stems went into cordage, baskets and sandals. Every part of the plant is bitter, and the bark can blister some people’s skinMDC, “Eastern Leatherwood” (Dirca palustris), which also puts the shrub on north- and east-facing valley slopes, as the 1980 account does..
In April 2025 the state made 1,440 acres of the valley the Leatherwood Creek Natural Area, on land of the L-A-D Foundation, which manages it through the Pioneer Forest that Leo Drey founded in 1951. Drey had begun buying Cutover. Land from which the timber has been cut. The lumber companies left much of the Jacks Fork country cutover by about 1920 (Chapter 7). Glossary → Ozark timberland that year, and when he learned in 1953 that some 90,000 acres belonging to National Distillers were to be clear-cut, he went to New York and arranged to buy them. He cut his forest by single-tree selection, taking trees one at a time and leaving the stand, set up the L-A-D Foundation in 1962, and in 2004 he and his wife gave the Pioneer Forest to the foundation. When he died in 2015, at ninety-eight, it covered about 143,000 acres in six Missouri countiesSt. Louis Public Radio 2015. The year of the first purchases is Drey’s own (Drey 1998, 3: “1951, I bought the first land”), and the state gives the forest’s founding as 1951 (above); the obituary dates them to 1950. See Chapter 10.. Upstream the creek cuts through Roubidoux sandstone, and toward the mouth it winds between steep bluffs of Gasconade Dolomite, with as much as 400 feet from the valley floor to the ridgetops. Cliff, forest, Woodland. The period of prehistory from about 600 B.C. to A.D. 900 in radiocarbon years, when people here first made pottery and took up the bow (Chapter 3). Glossary → and fen hold more than 500 native plants, some of them Glacial relict. A plant left from a colder time, surviving on cool, damp cliffs, such as the harebell of the Jacks Fork Natural Area (Chapter 1; Chapter 16; Reach E). Glossary → more at home in the Great Lakes states that hang on in the Ozarks on steep, sheltered north-facing slopes, and darters and other fish that need clean water live in the creek. The Natural area. A Missouri tract set aside as one of the best remaining examples of the state’s native communities, to be managed to keep it that way. The Jacks Fork and Barn Hollow natural areas were designated on May 27, 1980 (Chapter 11). Glossary → has no facilitiesMDC, Leatherwood Creek Natural Area.. In 1977 the park pointed floaters to the creek mouthNPS 1977, stop 9; see Chapter 16. to see the mix of eastern, southern and western plants (Chapter 16).
A lot of families once lived along Leatherwood, and by one account Loss Millman had a sawmill about three miles upLewis 1980, PDF p. 41, the only source. the creek in 1928. John Woolsey is said to have lived on Leatherwood before the Civil War, and the trail named for him ran from his home up the creek and over the ridges to his brother’s place on the North Prong (Reach A). He is probably buried, by the same account, in a field on the point between Leatherwood and Rough Hollow, where six to twelve graves include one of a man named LinkLewis 1980, PDF p. 41, the only source; the graveyard is marked “Cem.” on the map, PDF p. 37. Woolseys buried on the North Prong: see Reach A.. In November 1863 a Union patrol came down to the river by Woolsey’s trail and burned the cabin of Miles and Jack StephensStevens 1991, 61–62, quoting the Official Records; see Chapter 6., by one account near the mouth of the creekLewis 1980, PDF p. 34, the only source for the place. (Chapter 6). Peter Renfro, who killed a Summersville constable in 1888, is said to have hidden in a cave on LeatherwoodLewis 1980, PDF p. 41; MSS 1982, 46, 49; see Chapter 13. (Chapter 13).
Up the valley a ridge above the creek is called the Mule Corral, with a sawmill said to have stood nearby, and a large Sinkhole. A hollow in the ground where rock below has dissolved or caved in, through which water drains underground; also called a sink, an American use (Chapter 2; Chapter 12). Glossary → called the Big Basin lies across from Low Gap, the gap between the South Prong and Walnut HollowLewis 1980, PDF p. 41 and the map on PDF p. 38, the only source.. On the upland between the lower creek and the river lies the Dogwood Basin, in country known as the Tin Roof, after a shed a cattleman was building whose tin was stolenLewis 1980, PDF p. 41 and the map on PDF p. 37, the only source. before he could finish it. Leatherwood is said to have been a good place to make whiskeyLewis 1980, PDF p. 41, the only source., and Harley Patterson, by one account the best whiskey maker on the upper Jacks Fork, made good whiskey and a lot of it. The creek is also known for cottonmouths, and some people will swear that a stick thrown into it will be mobbed by them. The snake itself, and the river’s other cottonmouth stories, are in Chapter 16.
Center Field
Field · right bank · about mile 22.9 · Plate A8
Center Field lies on the right, in the sharp bend the river makes around Bee BluffLewis 1980, PDF p. 40 and the map on PDF p. 43, the only source; Plate A8..
Rough Hollow
Hollow · left bank · about mile 23.1 · Plate A8
Rough Hollow comes in on the left, draining nearly two square milesJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (1.9 square miles); USGS GNIS (725594).. It is the second Rough HollowUSGS GNIS; see Reach E. on the upper river, after the one above Rymers (Reach E). It is said to run water for some distance and to be hard goingLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source. on foot. The hollow is part of the Leatherwood Creek Natural AreaMDC, Leatherwood Creek Natural Area.. By one account J. U. Woolsey lived on the ridgeLewis 1980, PDF p. 41, the only source. between Rough Hollow and Leatherwood.
Bee Bluff, Bee Bluff Hole and Spring Bluff Hole
Bluff and pools · left bank · about miles 23.3 to 23.5 · Plate A8

Bee Bluff stands on the outside of a hairpin bend, where the river turns from north to eastPlate A8; USGS GNIS (736242, left bank)., and rises about 240 feetmeasured on the flood-mapping terrain (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 13), the face on the left at about miles 23.3 to 23.4.. In 1977 the park told floaters that honeybees’ homes could sometimes be seen in the holes high in its uneven faceNPS 1977, stop 10., and George Ipock, by one account, took honey out of those holes with a long ladder. The pool beside the bluff is Bee Bluff Hole. Below it is Spring Bluff Hole, about 6 feet deep at low waterthe pool’s depth below the riffle that holds it, roughly its low-water depth, measured on the 2021–23 riverbed survey (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 12; pool at about mile 23.57)., named for a small spring, with a pipeLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source. said to carry water out of the spring. The old Forsite Place, said to have been homesteaded by a family named JustisLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source., lay on the left below the bluff. The park’s list of primitive campsites in 1981 ran “Bee Bluff to Bay Creek.”
Bee Hollow Ford
Former crossing · about mile 23.9
Above Bee Hollow, by one account, Oscar and Adolf Kooler built a Low-water bridge, low-water crossing. A road crossing built low across a stream, a ford with a floor, often a concrete slab with culvert pipes beneath it, which water overtops in a rise (Chapter 8; Chapter 18). Glossary → in the logging days, with sides of logs filled with big rocks. A spring flood carried it away long ago, and the place is now called Bee Hollow FordLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source..
Bee Hollow, Bee Hollow Branch and Bee Hollow Hole
Hollow, branch and pool · right bank · about mile 24.0 · Plate A8
Bee Hollow comes in from the south about seven-tenths of a mile below Bee BluffMBGN 2011; measured along the river centerline (23.3 to 24.0)., and its stream, Bee Hollow Branch, drains about a square mile and a halfJacks Fork Creek Network 2026 (1.5 square miles).. Both names have been official only since the 2011 corrections; before that the maps left the valley without a name and called its stream Island BranchMBGN 2011; USGS GNIS (748765, 2710695); see Chapter 18. (Chapter 18). The pool at the mouth is Bee Hollow HoleLewis 1980, PDF p. 43 (map); Plate A8.. In the logging days a tram of the Cordz-Fisher company is said to have come out of Pine Hollow into the head of Bee Hollow, the hollow below Bee Bluff, ending about a quarter of a mile from the river behind Chalk Bluff. It hauled logs to the mill at Birch Tree, with Pine knot. The base of a pine limb where it grows into the trunk, so full of resin that it outlasts the rest of a dead tree and burns hot and bright. Pine knots lit the gigging boats, burning in a fire box or metal basket called a firejack in the middle of the boat (Chapter 19). Glossary → piled along the route to fire the boilerLewis 1980, PDF pp. 34 (“the railroad came out of Pine Hollow and into Bee Hollow … to a point about one-fourth mile from the river,” told with the Iron Stake Woods behind Chalk Bluff) and 40 (the Cordz-Fisher tram “branched off into the upper part of Bee Hollow”), the only source; read together here as one tram. See Chapter 7. (Chapter 7).
Spring Hollow below Bee Bluff
Hollow · left bank · about mile 24.1
A little below Bee Hollow a hollow known as Spring Hollow comes in on the left, a different hollow from the Spring Hollow at the Kelly holes. A small spring rises in it, and a man named Leech is said to have made whiskey there, with the spring for water and dead cedar for fuel, since it burns with almost no smokeLewis 1980, PDF p. 40 and the map on PDF p. 43, the only source..
The Flat Hole and the tie yard
Pool and former tie landing · about miles 24.3 to 24.7
The Flat Hole lies between Bee Hollow and a hollow on the right known as Turkey Roost Hollow, which comes in at about mile 24.7, where the river begins its turn north toward Dyer BluffLewis 1980, PDF p. 43 (map: Turkey Roost Hollow entering on the right at the foot of the Flat Hole, above Dyer Bluff); Plate A8 (an unlettered right-bank stream at about mile 24.7); measured on the river centerline.. By one account it has filled in so badly that it is only a shallow stretch of water, slow and flat enough to take a long time to get through. Above it there is said to have been a tie yard, where ties were dropped into the river down a Chute. A narrow, fast slot of water through a shoal or past an obstacle. A smooth V of water pointing downstream marks the deepest path through it (Chapter 20). Glossary → (Chapter 7). Jabe Searcy’s cabin is said to have stood on the left. In 1980 the road along the north bank, which came in from Highway 106 by Bay Creek, ran upstream past the old George Dyer Place and the Forsite Place and climbed over the hill toward Bee Bluff. In 1977 the park described campsites strung along it down to Bay CreekNPS 1977, “Bay Creek.”, and in 2007 the road ran about two miles upriver from the campground with campsites scatteredJohnson 2007, 33. along the way. The river from Bay Creek up to the old Justis Place is by one account a favorite place to campLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source; see Chapter 7. Turkey Roost on the right: Lewis 1980, PDF pp. 37, 43 (maps)..
Dyer Bluff, George Dyer Bluff and Big Rock Hole
Bluffs and pool · both banks · about miles 25.0 to 25.7 · Plate A9
The big bluff on the right, rimmed by the river where it turns north toward Bay Creek, is called Dyer Bluff. It rises about 310 feetmeasured on the flood-mapping terrain (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 13), the faces on the right at about miles 24.7 to 25.1. above the water. What looks from below like a cave in it is said to be only a shelter, a disappointment to anyone who climbs the steep slopeLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source; on the right: Lewis 1980, PDF p. 43 (map) and Plate A8 (bluff at about mile 25.0). to it.
George Dyer Bluff stands on the left between Bay Creek and the old George Dyer Place, above Big Rock Hole, and rises about 280 feetmeasured on the flood-mapping terrain (Heimann, Atkinson and High 2025; Map 13), the face on the left at about mile 25.5, beside Big Rock Hole on the 1980 map (PDF p. 43); a lower face of about 150 feet stands on the left just above the mouth of Bay Creek (about mile 25.8).. A rock on the bank, by one account, once stood six feet above the water there, and children dove off it into the hole. By 1980 the rock could no longer be seenLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source..
Bay Creek
Creek, landing and campground · left bank · about mile 25.9 · Plate A9

Bay Creek comes in on the left at the end of the reach. It drains about fifteen square miles of upland, but on the state’s stream maps only about a mile of its nine flows all yearMDC 2001, PDF 28–29 (table Ge03: 1.0 of 9.2 miles)., and in August 2006 it was adding half a cubic footMugel, Richards and Schumacher 2009, 27–28 (table 2). of water a second to the river. By one account it always runs water, though a floater hardly notices it, and its springs lie mostly in Watered Hollow, the fork of the creek that holds water; the Burk Heiney Spring, a big one, is said to rise below the mouth of Watered Hollow. Dry Hollow, which by the same account holds no visible water at all, comes down beside the creek at its mouth, and the road from Highway 106 came down it to the Joab Dyer PlaceLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source.. The river used to swing to the right through what was called the Clay Bank Hole. By 1980 it ran straight past the mouth of the creek, and in normal water none flowed through the old channelLewis 1980, PDF p. 40 and the map on PDF p. 43, the only source; see Chapter 15. (Chapter 15).
The Park Service keeps a landing and a backcountry campground at Bay Creek, at the end of a gravel road from Highway 106NPS 2022a, E-6 to E-7 (Bay Creek Campground) and map C-11; NPS 1977, “Bay Creek”; see Chapter 11. (Chapter 11). Archaeologists checking the ground for park development around 1980 recorded prehistoric chipped stone, including large dart points, at Bay Creek, along with late-nineteenth-century ceramics and bottle glassLynott 1981, 74, 124–25; see Chapter 3. (Chapter 3). In April 2007 a party of cavers camped on a high gravel bar about a hundred yards from the last of the Bay Creek campsites, across from a high, steep bluff “pockmarked with holes.” Around midnight one of them heard a large animal moving through the brush across the narrow river, perhaps Forty. Forty acres, a quarter of a quarter section. A hill farm was often one or two forties (Chapter 5). Glossary → feet away, and got a good enough look to be confident it was a small black bear. A black bear had been reported in the vicinity, and it frequently broke into coolers at the Bay Creek campgroundJohnson 2007, 33.. Black bears, rare in Missouri by the 1850s (Chapter 13), had nearly disappeared by the early 1900s, and by the 1930s and 1940s few if any were left. Between 1958 and 1968 Arkansas released 254 bears caught in Minnesota and Manitoba, bears began crossing north into Missouri, and by 2024 the state estimated about a thousand, increasing by about 8 percent a yearMDC 2025 (bears) (an estimate of 998 bears for 2024)..
The Joab Dyer Place stood on the hill between Bay Creek and Dry Hollow, and above the old home place, near the edge of the trees, thirty to forty graves make up the Dyer Cemetery, where Dyers, Donaldsons, Hardwicks, Ipocks, Stuarts, Coops and CookysLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source. The scan prints “Stu1ut,” read as Stuart. are buried. About twenty families are said to have lived on Bay Creek, and the big flood of 1928 ruined most of their small farms (Chapter 14). By one account there were two sawmills on the creek. In that flood the mule barn at Kooler’s mill, about a mile and a half up, washed away, and drowned mules were found the next day scattered clear to the mouth of the creek. Cleve Hoberry and a man named Babcock had the other mill about three miles up, and Hoberry, Joab Dyer’s father-in-law, is said to have come from California. Another mill stood at Black PondLewis 1980, PDF p. 40, the only source; the June 1928 flood: see Chapter 14..
A sawyer born in 1914 who grew up near Bay Creek, and lived near it for forty-six years, remembered that people there held back from burning the woods to save the acorns for their hogsJacobson and Primm 1994, 40 (table 6), 45 (Jess Plowman); see Chapter 5. (Chapter 5). He also remembered “a lot of bays along the river, that the water come up but there wasn’t no current through it,” which disappeared when the drifts went out of the river. Where the creek’s name came from has not been recorded; another Bay Creek, on the Current, takes its name from Goose BayO’Brien 1939, 9.. In November 1863 ten Union militiamen came down Bay Creek to the Jacks Fork on the same patrolStevens 1991, 61–62; see Chapter 6. that came down Leatherwood (Chapter 6).
Places not yet placed
Fifteen Foot Hole. The park’s list of primitive campsites in 1981 ran “Rymer, Fifteen Foot Hole, Nickeloff Field, Bee Bluff to Bay Creek,” which, if the list runs downstream, puts a Fifteen Foot Hole somewhere between Rymers and Nickelhoff Hole. Dark Hollow Hole, remembered as fifteen feet deepJacobson and Primm 1994, 57., and Eighteen Foot Hole both lie in that stretch.
Jones, Searcy, Upper Dixon and Lower Dixon. In 2022NPS 2022a, E-6 to E-7 and maps A-11 to C-11. the park named four small backcountry areas between Rymers and Bay Creek, apparently in downstream order. Dixon Ford on the South Prong is a different placesee Reach B. (Reach B).
The Alfalfa FieldLewis 1980, PDF p. 37 (map), the only source.. A map of 1980 letters a field called the Alfalfa Field on the left near False Teeth Hole.
On to Reach G
Below Bay Creek the river passes Dyer Ford and a small bluff on the left and runs on toward Flat Top Bluff and Island BranchLewis 1980, PDF pp. 40, 43–44, the only source; see Reach G., the start of Reach G. Rules for the river are in Part Six.
| Creek | Bank | Mile | Drainage | Name |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Johnny Hollow, with Floyd Hollow | right | about 16.8 | 6.4 sq mi | federal map |
| Stillhouse Hollow (below Bunker Hill) | left | about 17.3 | 1.5 sq mi | federal map |
| Dark Hollow | right | 18.0 | 0.8 sq mi | federal map |
| Unnamed branch | left | about 18.5 | 0.5 sq mi | none |
| Sycamore Hollow | right | about 19.6 | 2.9 sq mi | federal map |
| Stillhouse Hollow | right | about 21.4 | 4.0 sq mi | federal map since 2011 |
| Spring Hollow (Big Bear Hollow) | left | about 22.1 | 0.6 sq mi | federal map |
| Little Bear Hollow | left | about 22.2 | not traced | local |
| Leatherwood Creek | left | about 22.7 | 20.1 sq mi | federal map |
| Rough Hollow | left | about 23.1 | 1.9 sq mi | federal map |
| Bee Hollow Branch (Bee Hollow) | right | about 24.0 | 1.5 sq mi | federal map since 2011 |
| Spring Hollow below Bee Bluff | left | about 24.1 | not traced | local |
| Turkey Roost Hollow | right | about 24.7 | not traced | local |
| Bay Creek | left | about 25.9 | 15.4 sq mi | federal map |
